It is the seasonless collection 2024-25 by the brand ALCHÈTIPO by Andrea Alchieri, which revolves around the concept of magic, an element that has enchanted mankind for millennia, evoking terror, laughter, shock and amazement.
Credits: Loris Patrizi
The collection is inspired by the book ‘The Magic Book’ published by Taschen, which paints a world tinged with distressing black and eccentric colours, with distorted bodies, cryptic messages and references to the perennial struggle between good and evil.
Once persecuted, magicians have always been vehicles to a parallel universe of invoked spirits, read minds, inverted laws or sleight of hand.
Pioneers of special effects, they have never ceased to confound us by making the impossible possible on stage, thus giving rise to cinematic special effects.
The theme developed is closely linked to the identity of Andrea Alchieri's aesthetic project, whose fascination with the gloomy and macabre also appears in past collections.
Emerging from the naming itself is the suggestion of alchemy, the ancient art between science and magic, which for the creative artist represents a fil rouge that cyclically sinks and reemerges, drawing on surrealist cinema where, through a mix of languages, he creates an entire project laced with mysteries and occult beauty.
Credits: Loris Patrizi
Among the various inspirations in the collection, the fascination with string puppets and classical ballet stand out.
Puppets, with their controlled and often disturbing movements, reflect the theme of manipulation and occult power.
Classical ballet, on the other hand, with its elegant poses and sophisticated movements, introduces a fascinating contrast, enhancing the tension between grace and control, between freedom and constraint.
These references intertwine in the collection, evoking a world in which mystery and beauty coexist in a delicate balance.
The designer, seduced by the esoteric aspect, develops his suggestions by placing velvet curtains and chairs at the centre of attention, with eccentric and surrealist all-over prints that evoke psychedelic trips, inspired by the photographic work of Ira Cohen and redesigned by print designer Sharon Bassi to create a collection of garments that evoke an introspective journey.
Her transfers to the cut, to corsetry, to the starring splints on deconstructed blazer overcoats, to the extremely imaginative and disturbing hair, to the eccentric makeup inspired by the pure colours of the collection prints, defined the storytelling of the project, thus presenting a collection that is unique in every way.
Leather, the protagonist in this collection, is treated with impeccable tailoring artistry, adding a visual and tactile strength that amplifies the dialogue between control and freedom.
With its robust and enveloping surface, it recalls the tension of marionettes and the precision of classical ballet, creating a fascinating contrast between rigidity and movement.
In this collection, leather is not just a material, but a statement of elegance and authority, carefully used in the structural details and impeccable capI shapes that enhance the craftsmanship and intrinsic mystery of each piece.
Credits: Loris Patrizi
As a designer, Andrea Alchieri chose to participate in Lineapelle Designers Edition, marking his first foray into integrating leather with tailored fabrics.
Motivated by the desire to explore new frontiers in design and quality, the creative sees in this collaboration an opportunity to fuse traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Leather, reinterpreted through this creative lens, enriches his aesthetic vision, giving the garments unparalleled depth and elegance.
Credits: Loris Patrizi
Discover more at alchetipo.com
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